“How far is Yana caves from here? Will there be people around?” I asked the driver on our way to Mirjan fort. 

I had done my research on Yana caves beforehand, and some of the blogs suggested going only in groups since it is a deserted place.

“Not very far, madam. Another hour from here. Then it will take about an hour to go up and come down. In total, we will need three hours. But you have to climb! Tourists will be there.” He answered.

We quickly decided to head on to Yana caves. One cannot miss a place after reading about it and getting so close to it. 

The road from Gokarna joins the Kumta-Sirsi highway, and a deviation from there goes towards the Yana caves. Suddenly the ambiance turns into a thick forest, roads winding up the hill, and silence all around. It was noon, and the sun was blaring. The dense trees provided enough shade. We arrived at the base of the peak, and there were two other cars. The small refreshments shop owner looked out for prospective customers, but it was just me. Bad for him.

A little geography lesson here –

Yana is a village that is a little away from Kumta Sirsi highway. There are two ways to reach the rocks. If you are coming in from Kumta, you have to trek up the hill for quite some distance. If you are coming from Sirsi, you go to the top of the hill and climb down the slopes to the easier rocks. From Gokarna, you can take either of these routes. 

I took the Kumta one, so I had to drag myself up the hill. 

Now some history –

Yana rocks are two substantial black monolithic rocks sitting at the heart of a dense forest. One is called Bhairaveshwara shikhara, and the other Mohini Shikara. 

Very long ago, there was a demon called Bhasmasura, and, as his name suggests, whatever he touched turned into ashes. Once, he decided to test his powers by placing his hand on Lord Shiva’s head (note – he got the boon from Shiva himself.. Think twice before you give your word!). Shiva descended to earth and sought the help of Lord Vishnu. Vishnu appeared in the form of Mohini, a seductress, to woo the demon. She danced with the devil. When she placed her hand on her head, Bhasmasura imitated her, and lo and behold, got burnt! 

So the rocks there are all black! Not just the stone, anything you touch in that area leaves thick dark soot stains!  

The Walk – 

It was noon, and no tourists were around. The path had beautiful dense foliage on either side, close enough to touch you. I stood at peace, admiring the beauty of the colours, grasping the serenity of the place, hearing the jingling of the stream. The cricket went “creek, creek, creek” rhythmically. 

I took this decision in the spur of the moment, so I was in slippers and not shoes. Streams were cutting across the path, making your feet wet. 

Almost no one was in the vicinity. I did not want to stop to catch a breath, so I kept moving. Then, out of nowhere, came the eerie sound of anklets jingling, like a distant bike trying to start combined with cricket creaking! All this made me climb the peak super fast until 

I found some locals plucking fruits from a tree. I stopped and wondered whether to proceed to look at the four men standing in front with sickles in their hand. They gave the same bewildered look, wondering if it was a ghost walking alone! 

I mustered up the courage to ask what they were doing. Their bewilderment broke into a smile. They also told me the anklet sound was the sound of an insect. 

I passed them. The moment you take the steps, you can see the Mohini shikhara. My heart leaped with joy though I wouldn’t say I liked solo treks.

My joy was very short-lived as the steps never came to an end! It took more than 200 steep steps to reach the Mohini Shikhara. 

Finally, I bumped into a bunch of tourists who were trying to get into a smaller cave! They told me that the other cave is a little more massive, and I proceeded to walk up to it. It was maybe another 50 steps.

There was a little adventure too. I crossed a poorly balanced wooden plank placed above a stream. Finally, I reached the Bhairaveshwara shikhara. What a relief! Phew!

People coming in from Sirsi were more in number as I could see few other tourists walking down the other part (as no steps on that side). There is a temple here with a Lord Shiva Lingam, which has been formed by itself. There is a narrow stream of water trickling down it all the time.

After a quick darshan, I came out and took further steps. The security personnel looked surprised and asked if I was alone. I nodded, and he added, “Can you carefully go up and come back?” 

“Why not?” I thought.

“You have to remove your slippers from now on because you are going to walk above the temple,” he informed me.

Then I understood why he asked me to be careful. The steps are steep. Little rocks can pierce your feet. Plants are growing near the steps, obscure what might be underneath. To top it all, the flowing water makes it slippery. 

I safely packed my camera, held onto the railing, and made it to the top successfully. 

The cave is not so big. It opens up to some striking sunlight. It was just after monsoon, so there was a layer of moss everywhere; a little stream of water trickled in; the black sooty mud made it a little slippery. 

A small shop for refreshments is available on the top. Having spent some time at the top, I started my descent. Descent is always quick but be careful on the slopes. Once my slippers got wet in the stream, it got all the more challenging to walk down. Wear something, like floaters, which can get wet yet tied to your feet

It took me approximately three hours for the entire trip. I would say monsoon is not the time to go. The place can get slippery, and I was able to see the smooth trails left behind by the water stream. 

You don’t get a good grip at such places. Pack some water, a hat, and proper attire. I was not prepared. I went in white and returned with dark soot and mud all over my dress. Oh, the black stain from the soot on my feet did not go away for two days!

Thankfully, I did not get any leech bites. Yayyy! I don’t like them. 

The place is compatible with a solo trip. Do it in the morning or after 3 pm when the sun starts to come down. 

What a rejuvenating experience!

Book your stay here – Gokarna hotels and resorts to stay

How To Reach Yana Caves:

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